Finding Peace in Barcelona: Parc del Laberint d'Horta

Barcelona often gets the reputation of being a big, noisy and touristy city where you can't get any peace. If you actively seek the sites in every guidebook, yes it will be, but I think there's more to the Catalonian capital than that. Take the Parc del Laberint d'Horta, for instance, located away from the city centre and walking distance from L3 Mundet metro station.

It's the oldest park in Barcelona, apparently, and it's wonderful to walk through or sit in for an hour or so. The maze is by no means one of those easy, get-it-done-in-five-minutes ones, and there are some lovely water features to admire too.

There is a small entrance fee, except on Sunday afternoons and the first Sunday of the month. So, if you find yourself in Barcelona on a Sunday and looking for some peace and quiet away from the city's hustle and bustle, it's a great journey to make. It's one I'd love to make more, particularly if I have a good book to take with me. 

Laie Pau Claris: The Perfect Bookshop/Cafe in Barcelona to Read With a Coffee

Back home in England it's a common affair to combine bookshops with cafés, and most Waterstones seem to feature a Costa or something similar. Here in Spain though, it still seems to be a growing trend. That's why I was so excited to hear about Laie Pau Claris in one of my guide books, a well-stocked and comprehensive bookshop that is also a café/restaurant. Yes, a restaurant. Are there many restaurant-bookshops in the UK? If so, I must visit one. 

A coffee and croissant while reading El País in Laie Pau Claris, Barcelona

But anyway, I'd been meaning to visit Laie Pau Claris ever since I arrived here in Barcelona, and the incentive grew stronger after I ended up buying my Salvador Espriu anthology from the Laie Pau Claris stall at La Setmana de Lliure en Català. I didn't realise this until I looked at the complementary bookmark they'd given me and saw the bookshop name, but this convinced me that I needed to visit.

Yesterday I left early, taking the Metro to Diagonal and then walking over to Pau Claris 85. This didn't make much sense, as the walk from my flat to Diagonal is probably the shortest part of the route, but the rest of the journey proved to be an enjoyable walk through Barcelona. If you are looking to get to Laie Pau Claris by Metro, I think the nearest station would be Passeig de Gracia. 

Image of Laie Pau Claris from thebarcelonanotebook.com

I sat upstairs in the first area you get to upon going up the stairs, mainly because I love sitting by windows. I was undisturbed for the hour or so I sat here, and I enjoyed an espresso for 1.50€ and a croissant for about 1€. I really liked both, so they certainly made the small bill worthwhile!

Afterwards I went downstairs and perused the books a little more (after of course doing this when I first went in), and I discovered a complete collection of León Felipe's poetry for 26€. I had been browsing the shelves particularly for Felipe's work, as, over the last few years, I've translated quite a bit of his work into English (my website for this is leonfelipeinenglish.blogspot.com). I knew I had to buy this, but after considering my lack of Erasmus grant and wages currently, I decided it could wait a week or so. 

Upstairs seating in the Laie Pau Claris café

On the whole, I'd love to come back to Laie for a coffee and a read most Saturdays if I can. It's such a great way to relax after a week of working, and they have all the major Catalan and Spanish newspapers on offer if I decide to do some language learning. 

If you're looking for a Barcelona bookshop that stocks English books, Laie Pau Claris seemed to have a decent range on offer too. I'll definitely be back! 

Barcelona Celebrations: La Diada, The Catalan Way and La Mercè

To prove to my university that I'm making the most of my experience out here in Barcelona, I have to write an "intercultural competence" report each month. "Intercultural what?" Basically, I have to write a few paragraphs on how much pa amb tomaquet I've been eating, how I've been dressing like the natives, and anything else that I've done to fit in and not be the stereotypically ignorant English tourist. It's a welcome alternative to writing essays on Edmund Spenser, I must say.

This month I've had plenty of cultural experiences to write about, what with all the Spanish celebrations (and days off work) that seem to have been scheduled especially for my arrival in late August. On September 11th "La Diada" was celebrated, which is loosely translated on Wikipedia as the National Day of Catalonia. The day commemorates the defeat of the Catalan troops fighting during the War of the Spanish Succession, and there's a noticeably political resonance to the day's proceedings. 

For one, The Catalan Way ('Via Catalana') took place this year: a 480-kilometre human chain in support of Catalan independence. I really wanted to see this (and I handily got the day off work), so my boyfriend and I decided to schedule seeing it into our day. We left late morning to visit Barcelona Zoo, and saw people all over the city already with Catalan flags as capes and t-shirts in the regional colours.

Just as we were leaving the zoo, we heard a loud chanting outside on the streets. A rather confused English couple asked if we knew what was going on, and I explained about The Catalan Way very briefly. "Oh, they must be cheering because they've got the world record for the longest chain, then!" exclaimed the Englishwoman. I decided that explaining the politics behind it wasn't really worth it in this case.

As soon as we left the Parc de la Ciutadella, where Barcelona Zoo is located, we saw where all the noise was coming from. "Ah, that would be the chain then", my boyfriend muttered. 

It was a great spectacle seeing all the colours, flags and independence supporters in unison, and there didn't seem to be any negative or violent feeling behind the demonstration. In fact, everyone seemed really cheery and sociable (with the exception of an angry driver who yelled at a section of the chain to move out of her way - in Spanish).

Today, the 24th of September, was another day off work for me. This time it was La Mercè, Barcelona's biggest festival that celebrates the patron saint of the same name. I was determined to see one of the castells, or human castles, and set off rather late for the organised event at Plaça Sant Jaume that was planned for 12.30pm. As I walked past Barcelona Cathedral, a crowd of people formed around me. Soon we were all moving very slowly, and as we neared Sant Jaume, the crowd stopped moving altogether. This would be where the castells were taking place, then.

I could barely see anything from where I was standing, but occasionally the castell handily moved across the plaça so that it was visible from the alleyway where I was standing (with a million others).

The crowd got more and more cramped, and as people started getting quite angry with each other, my claustrophobia got worse and worse. There was nowhere to move, people couldn't get out the crowd, and some fool had decided to bring a large box of baguettes to try and sell. Just as I was making my way out of the increasingly distressed crowd, I turned around and saw the castell. "Should I take a photo, or is this a completely inopportune moment?" I thought, as people around me were pushing and shoving more and more. My impulsive side led my decision-making, and I left the Barri Gòtic with this out-of-focus, yet not atrocious, photo. 

Maybe next time I'll just find one of the castellers' training sessions to take photos of...

A Day Trip to Montserrat: Our Sant Jeroni Hike & Photos of the View

I'd been meaning for some time to go to Montserrat, tempted by the promise of incredible views and fresh mountain air. Being outside Barcelona it required a day trip, but the perfect opportunity came up when Chris, my boyfriend, was staying with me for eight days. 

We decided to go early on a Saturday (although the plan of leaving at 8am didn't quite work out for us), and took the metro to Plaça Espanya where we could then catch the R5 train to Montserrat. We queued up for tickets at the designated Montserrat area of the Espanya metro station, feeling slightly smug that it was all going so smoothly thus far, then realised that we had no idea which ticket to buy. Chris hastily grabbed a leaflet from the Montserrat information desk, and I skimmed through it just as the ticket machine assistant (funny how these are so common in Spain) approached us. He could clearly see we were both English and confused, and therefore knew that we warranted his full attention. 

"TransMontserrat?" I queried, plucking the information from the rather unhelpful leaflet without giving it much thought. This ticket would probably get us there, at least. The ticket machine expert promptly selected the option from the million other options on the screen, and the grand total 53.20€ filled the screen. Woah. Being the unquestioning tourist that I was that day, I smiled and rummaged for the amount from my thief-proof bag (which a pickpocket went for the other day, but more on that another time) and paid the excessive sum.

After getting on the wrong train but having the luck to quickly transfer onto the right one, we then took the railway up to Montserrat Monastery. The views became increasingly sublime, only to get even better when we took the St Joan funicular further up the mountain. We'd chosen to do the Sant Jeroni walking route - mainly because it was the most difficult and we wished to somehow prove ourselves to the Spanish - and we soon became glad we did. The hike is estimated to be a two hour round-trip, excluding breaks, and it took us roughly this time.  

The view from the early stages of our Montserrat hike

The views were incredible all the way up the hiking path, but when we finally reached the top it was unrivalled. At Sant Jeroni peak there's a panoramic view for miles, and it's the perfect spot to sit with a picnic and your camera. To be honest, after climbing 1,236 metres above sea level you need a picnic loaded with sugar and other providers of unhealthy energy surges.  

The view from Sant Jeroni, Montserrat

The route back down was understandably a lot quicker, but it did involve an insane amount of steps. For the first half an hour or so this was fine for us, but for the last ten minutes it did start to finally challenge us. By the time we returned to the monastery, my calf muscles were noticeably spasming (although my weird joint disorder that involves unnatural bendiness may be responsible for this behaviour). A bottle of Fanta soon sorted me out, and we spent the last part of our visit appreciating the Montserrat Monastery itself.

Montserrat Monastery

It's such an ornate building - extravagant, even - and it's a really calming place to sit inside. What with the remarkable views and relaxing atmosphere (despite the tourists, of which there weren't too many during our visit), you can tell why many people claim Montserrat to be a place of healing.

All in all, visiting Montserrat has been one of my favourite parts of being in Barcelona thus far. Also, the ticket price soon turned out to be worth it when it included our return trip from Barcelona, our rail trip up and down Montserrat, our funicular trips, and several Metro journeys. Chris and I will certainly go back at least once, mainly because Chris has the somewhat ambitious aim of completing all the other Montserrat hiking routes in a single morning. I'll let you know how that one goes.

My Travels to La Setmana del Llibre en Català, or Catalan Book Week (6-15 Septmeber 2013)

Clearly a very tempting book to purchase

If you've come across this blog, you may already know that I'm a reading nerd. One of the extreme variety, who is attracted to the slightest mention of anything literary.

When I first arrived here in Barcelona, they had already begun advertising La Setmana del Llibre en Català, or Catalan Book Week; an event that was clearly prioritised in the minds of the Barcelona Town hall judging by the presence of adverts on ninety-five percent of lampposts on any given street. 

Barri Gòtic

I looked up the Book Week online and was rewarded with images of books and day-to-day schedules packed with poetry readings, book-related talks, and stalls selling every Catalan book you could possibly need. This would be the perfect way to involve myself in Catalan culture without feeling too far from home, I thought!

I researched the details and found I could go to the Jaume I Metro station and then walk up to the Cathedral, where the Book Week was centred. It all seemed easy enough.

My first attempt to see the event was yesterday, on its second day. Getting the Metro was plain-sailing, and I had a lovely wander through the haunting, mediaeval alleyways of El Call as planned. It had started drizzling soon after I got off the Metro, but I wasn't too fussed about it. This was Spain after all; the sun would soon make a dazzling reappearance! I was ignorant of the drizzle as I took a few select photos of the area, and I soon came across the Cathedral. Perfect!

As soon as I got my camera out the real rain started. People started rushing indoors, but I wasn't put off and I waited for some sightseers to move so I could take a photo or two. I told myself, "I'm English, what could a bit of rain do to me?" 

Two photos were all I could manage before the downpour came. The Book Week stalls would have been merely around the corner, but it was not to be. I headed for the Metro at a reasonable pace, and then I started doing what could only be described as running. I was drenched.

A photo of Barcelona Cathedral taken during pouring rain (somehow you
cannot see it!)

Going down the steps to the Metro I thought I'd meet a herd of other tourists who were soaked through, but it turned out I was the only one. People started staring, and even more so when I got on the train. Makeup everywhere, the odd curl of hair glued to my forehead, shoes squealching: I was a mess. A mess that hadn't seen any books and had barely five photos to document my adventure.

The second attempt today was far more successful. In fact, it was easy. I worried momentarily that I couldn't find the Cathedral again, but seconds later I walked around a corner and saw a multitude of temporary wooden constructions filled with books. This would be it then.

La Setmana del Llibre en Català, located by Barcelona Cathedral 6-15 September

I loved seeing what each stall held, and the books on offer included fiction, children's books, Catalan history, and so much in-between. I particularly wanted a collection of Salvador Espriu's poems, largely because this year is the celebration of his work, and I eventually found one at the sensible price of €9.95. It also came with a complementary bookmark thrown in the bag, much to my excitement.

I listened for a few minutes to what seemed to be a a talk on Catalan poetry, and I could see various dramatic interpretations and poetry recitals going on while I meandered through the book stands. Hopefully I'll be able to go back at least once in the next few days and properly enjoy what the vast programme of the event has on offer, but today I just wanted to get a feel for it.

Aren't these great? The Elmer book towards the bottom right was a particular favourite.

All in all a great visit to a really well-thought-out celebration of reading. Now I just need to learn enough Catalan to understand my poetry anthology...

My sole purchase of the day, Cicle líric by Salvador Espriu

La Boqueria Market: Well, now that's ticked off the list...

La Boqueria market does have some great displays that are full of colour and exciting things. But it's not my sort of place.

I spent about ten minutes in the market with my sister last week, and I'm planning to keep my visit to just the one. Tourists may be crying out "Why? It's such an iconic part of Barcelona!", but I'm pretty sure most Catalans will agree with me on this.

Put simply,

• It's crazily busy, you can't go in the direction you'd like to go, and you'd rather not have your purse stolen.
• The logistics of buying anything seemed near-impossible to me. 
• The produce didn't strike me as exceptional, and nothing seemed to be higher in quality than what could be purchased in a small, quiet greengrocers. 

La Boqueria is one of those places that you have to see once before ignoring for the rest of your stay. For me, there are so many other places that I'd like to visit, actually enjoy, and be able to take in and remember the atmosphere of. The views of Montserrat, the Parc del laberint d'Horta, and the mediaeval atmosphere of El Barri Gòtic; these are the sort of places I'd like to be experiencing instead. 

But, for now, here's a photo - courtesy of my sister's iPhone - that I can use as proof I've been!

Visiting Montjuïc: Incredible Views, Green Spaces & The Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya

After struggling with the crowds of Las Ramblas and Placa Catalunya, visiting Montjuïc was such a welcome change. I left quite early, getting the Metro, and immediately spotted the two large columns that I'd been told to look out for. The Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya was immediately visible, and my fears of getting lost - once again - were quelled. 

Once you reach the building, which is in itself a great piece of architecture, you can see across most of Barcelona. When I visited it was quite busy here with tourists taking photos, but if you want a quieter spot for photos you can walk up a little higher and enjoy the view from a number of beautiful free-entry gardens. At 10am on a Sunday morning I only came across one or two other people in them!

Also, as I visited on the first Sunday of the month I got into the museum free of charge. I found this to be an added benefit on top of the great views, lovely surroundings, and of course great art inside. I particularly enjoyed the Civil War photography section in the Modern 2 exhibition, but the older sculptures and wall murals were really interesting too.

If you're an architecture-nerd like me, something I can't really help as my mother is an architect by trade, then you'll probably wish to take a few photos inside the museum too!

The photo below depicts an engraving on the first of four large columns found in front of the Palau Nacional, and, in case you're unfamiliar with deciphering the incredibly unique language that is Catalan, it's a very political landmark. The Four Columns, or Les Quatre Columnes‏, were originally created by Josep Puig i Cadafalch in 1919 to become an icon of Catalanism. Because of this, they were demolished in 1928 during Primo de Rivera's dictatorship, when all public Catalanist symbols were systematically removed in order to avoid their being noticed during the 1929 Universal Exposition, which was to take place on Montjuïc.

After years of campaigning, a replica of the columns was erected in 2010 very close to the original site and following Puig i Cadafalch's original plans. Good on the campaigners, I think!

If you go higher up Montjuïc from the Palau Nacional, you can also see the Olympic Stadium, or the Estadi Olímpic Lluís Companys. After a bit of research, I found that Lluís Companys was not a sponsor of the Games, as we may imagine in today's world, but rather the 123rd President of Catalonia, from 1934 and during the Spanish Civil War.

Companys was leader of the Republican Left of Catalonia (ERC) political party and, after being exiled after the war, he was captured and handed over by the Gestapo to Franco's dictatorship. He was subsequently executed by firing squad in 1940 and, as they fired, he was reported to have cried 'Per Catalunya!' (For Catalonia!) Companys is buried at the Montjuïc Cemetery, near the castle, and his cause of death was tragically given as 'traumatic internal haemorrhage'.

Companys is the only incumbent president in Europe to have been executed, and seventy-two years later the council of war which sentenced him is still in force, according to Wikipedia (correct me if I'm wrong, anti-Wikipedia readers!) I hope that more tourists, like me, look into Les Quatre Columnes and Lluís Companys and understand the deep emotional history that's entrenched throughout Montjuïc. 

It's not simply a beautiful place with incredible views, but also a location that's still haunted by the dark shadows of politics alongside the courage of certain individuals.