Barcelona Celebrations: La Diada, The Catalan Way and La Mercè

To prove to my university that I'm making the most of my experience out here in Barcelona, I have to write an "intercultural competence" report each month. "Intercultural what?" Basically, I have to write a few paragraphs on how much pa amb tomaquet I've been eating, how I've been dressing like the natives, and anything else that I've done to fit in and not be the stereotypically ignorant English tourist. It's a welcome alternative to writing essays on Edmund Spenser, I must say.

This month I've had plenty of cultural experiences to write about, what with all the Spanish celebrations (and days off work) that seem to have been scheduled especially for my arrival in late August. On September 11th "La Diada" was celebrated, which is loosely translated on Wikipedia as the National Day of Catalonia. The day commemorates the defeat of the Catalan troops fighting during the War of the Spanish Succession, and there's a noticeably political resonance to the day's proceedings. 

For one, The Catalan Way ('Via Catalana') took place this year: a 480-kilometre human chain in support of Catalan independence. I really wanted to see this (and I handily got the day off work), so my boyfriend and I decided to schedule seeing it into our day. We left late morning to visit Barcelona Zoo, and saw people all over the city already with Catalan flags as capes and t-shirts in the regional colours.

Just as we were leaving the zoo, we heard a loud chanting outside on the streets. A rather confused English couple asked if we knew what was going on, and I explained about The Catalan Way very briefly. "Oh, they must be cheering because they've got the world record for the longest chain, then!" exclaimed the Englishwoman. I decided that explaining the politics behind it wasn't really worth it in this case.

As soon as we left the Parc de la Ciutadella, where Barcelona Zoo is located, we saw where all the noise was coming from. "Ah, that would be the chain then", my boyfriend muttered. 

It was a great spectacle seeing all the colours, flags and independence supporters in unison, and there didn't seem to be any negative or violent feeling behind the demonstration. In fact, everyone seemed really cheery and sociable (with the exception of an angry driver who yelled at a section of the chain to move out of her way - in Spanish).

Today, the 24th of September, was another day off work for me. This time it was La Mercè, Barcelona's biggest festival that celebrates the patron saint of the same name. I was determined to see one of the castells, or human castles, and set off rather late for the organised event at Plaça Sant Jaume that was planned for 12.30pm. As I walked past Barcelona Cathedral, a crowd of people formed around me. Soon we were all moving very slowly, and as we neared Sant Jaume, the crowd stopped moving altogether. This would be where the castells were taking place, then.

I could barely see anything from where I was standing, but occasionally the castell handily moved across the plaça so that it was visible from the alleyway where I was standing (with a million others).

The crowd got more and more cramped, and as people started getting quite angry with each other, my claustrophobia got worse and worse. There was nowhere to move, people couldn't get out the crowd, and some fool had decided to bring a large box of baguettes to try and sell. Just as I was making my way out of the increasingly distressed crowd, I turned around and saw the castell. "Should I take a photo, or is this a completely inopportune moment?" I thought, as people around me were pushing and shoving more and more. My impulsive side led my decision-making, and I left the Barri Gòtic with this out-of-focus, yet not atrocious, photo. 

Maybe next time I'll just find one of the castellers' training sessions to take photos of...

My Travels to La Setmana del Llibre en Català, or Catalan Book Week (6-15 Septmeber 2013)

Clearly a very tempting book to purchase

If you've come across this blog, you may already know that I'm a reading nerd. One of the extreme variety, who is attracted to the slightest mention of anything literary.

When I first arrived here in Barcelona, they had already begun advertising La Setmana del Llibre en Català, or Catalan Book Week; an event that was clearly prioritised in the minds of the Barcelona Town hall judging by the presence of adverts on ninety-five percent of lampposts on any given street. 

Barri Gòtic

I looked up the Book Week online and was rewarded with images of books and day-to-day schedules packed with poetry readings, book-related talks, and stalls selling every Catalan book you could possibly need. This would be the perfect way to involve myself in Catalan culture without feeling too far from home, I thought!

I researched the details and found I could go to the Jaume I Metro station and then walk up to the Cathedral, where the Book Week was centred. It all seemed easy enough.

My first attempt to see the event was yesterday, on its second day. Getting the Metro was plain-sailing, and I had a lovely wander through the haunting, mediaeval alleyways of El Call as planned. It had started drizzling soon after I got off the Metro, but I wasn't too fussed about it. This was Spain after all; the sun would soon make a dazzling reappearance! I was ignorant of the drizzle as I took a few select photos of the area, and I soon came across the Cathedral. Perfect!

As soon as I got my camera out the real rain started. People started rushing indoors, but I wasn't put off and I waited for some sightseers to move so I could take a photo or two. I told myself, "I'm English, what could a bit of rain do to me?" 

Two photos were all I could manage before the downpour came. The Book Week stalls would have been merely around the corner, but it was not to be. I headed for the Metro at a reasonable pace, and then I started doing what could only be described as running. I was drenched.

A photo of Barcelona Cathedral taken during pouring rain (somehow you
cannot see it!)

Going down the steps to the Metro I thought I'd meet a herd of other tourists who were soaked through, but it turned out I was the only one. People started staring, and even more so when I got on the train. Makeup everywhere, the odd curl of hair glued to my forehead, shoes squealching: I was a mess. A mess that hadn't seen any books and had barely five photos to document my adventure.

The second attempt today was far more successful. In fact, it was easy. I worried momentarily that I couldn't find the Cathedral again, but seconds later I walked around a corner and saw a multitude of temporary wooden constructions filled with books. This would be it then.

La Setmana del Llibre en Català, located by Barcelona Cathedral 6-15 September

I loved seeing what each stall held, and the books on offer included fiction, children's books, Catalan history, and so much in-between. I particularly wanted a collection of Salvador Espriu's poems, largely because this year is the celebration of his work, and I eventually found one at the sensible price of €9.95. It also came with a complementary bookmark thrown in the bag, much to my excitement.

I listened for a few minutes to what seemed to be a a talk on Catalan poetry, and I could see various dramatic interpretations and poetry recitals going on while I meandered through the book stands. Hopefully I'll be able to go back at least once in the next few days and properly enjoy what the vast programme of the event has on offer, but today I just wanted to get a feel for it.

Aren't these great? The Elmer book towards the bottom right was a particular favourite.

All in all a great visit to a really well-thought-out celebration of reading. Now I just need to learn enough Catalan to understand my poetry anthology...

My sole purchase of the day, Cicle líric by Salvador Espriu